St Helena - Zac
Mark Plato, the 'Saint' that took Jen and I on a tour of St Helena
One of the older 'Saints' on the island
If this guy could talk!
Me shooting Jen, shooting
Jen with our new friend
The following is an excerpt from my log kept during the trip from Cape Town to St Helena:
Day 1:
So I headed out of the V & A Waterfront Marina around 11:00am and passed through the two swing bridges and out into a very light breeze. Jen, Jeff and a photographer for a news paper followed me out in a Bavaria Yacht to see me off and grab some pix. As I said, the wind was very light but there was just enough breeze to fill the sails and keep me moving. I shut off the engine and took a look around and saw a big metal fishing boat about half a mile away on a collision course which is something you really don't want to see when you're in a light breeze going close to the wind. I kept on my course and hoped he would alter his course. As he got closer I called him on the VHF radio, but received no answer. As he got close enough for me to hear his engines, I started mine and spun Intrepid dead into the wind. He ended up passing just off my bow. Great seamanship, huh? I got the boat back on course and sailed along nicely past Robin Island. Unfortunately, after that, the wind died all together. As it got later, ships and fishing boats began to show up everywhere and a thick fog rolled in. By 11:00pm I had my spreader lights, navigation lights and strobe light all going hoping to make Intrepid more visible but I'm sure it was pretty much useless though because from my cockpit I could barely see the lights on the top of the mast!
As the night went on, I was navigating off the AIS and radar and there were some close passes. I had one ship pass less then half a mile away and I never saw a thing! If it wasn't for my AIS radar, a gift for which I am very grateful, from Dr. David Lowenberg, the night would have been very dangerous. The AIS radar lets me see the track position, name, speed, and course of most all ships. So, anyway...another sleepless night.
The next day, my Iridium sat phone charger slid off the counter into the sink. When I'm in a starboard tack, sea water backs up the drain and I always have about an inch of water sloshing around the sink. That is how I ended up with so little communication for the rest of my trip. I still had two bars of charge left on it which is about 20 minutes of the phone being on and I still had a week and a half to two weeks to go! I had to save that for emergencies. I called my mom to arrange a time to call her every two days for a quick weather report and to give my position.
The past couple of days have passed with not much going on. I've picked up the trades - a nice 15 - 20 knots apparent off the aft port quarter and am sailing with full genny and 1 reef in the main.
OK, so sorry for not putting what day it is on my blog but I've lost track. Not that that really matters out at sea. The sun does the same thing everyday anyway. It has been very overcast the last couple of days and the solar panels haven't been able to keep up with the draw so I'll have to run the engine to get some power from the alternator. Not that I need any speed from the engine, I'm going 6-7 knots running with 25-30 knots apparent behind me.
The other night at around 2:00am, the boat suddenly spun into the wind and when I got up to the cockpit I saw that the windvane wasn't doing it's job and the tiller arm was moving freely. I grabbed my Solar Light Cap (a very useful piece of gear. http://www.solarlightcap.com/) and saw that the two gears that connect the wind paddle to the paddle were in the water. I called my dad using my dying Iridium phone and asked him to call Hans at Scanmar and ask them how to fix it. I told him I would call him back in half an hour and hand-steered for about twenty minutes. Then I put away the genny and flopped around while I tried to get through to my dad who had really bad reception. I got the phone number for Monitor, called them up and got the directions for realigning the gears. In about 15 minutes I was sailing along nicely with the Monitor doing its job.
Not much going on the last few days...steady tradewinds. The only problem has been vane gears keep coming detached and always at some God-forsaken hour of the morning when its black as ink. Other than that, I'm making steady progress toward St Helena.
Smooth sailing the last couple of days with winds a little lighter than I would have liked but moving along in the 5s. Not much of any thing else going on so I'll write more when something happens.
OK, so I'm about 300 miles from the island and my sat phone just went from one bar of power to off so no more sat phone. I should be in in 50 hours or so. Hoping the wind doesn't die down too much more.
OK, well the wind did die all the way down. I had about 4 knots all night so I motored for awhile as the wind was predicted to increase within 12 hours. The next morning the engine died from a clogged fuel filter so I replaced it, siphoned some more diesel into the tank and tried to start the engine again. It cranked over once and just died so I looked in the engine room and discovered that the starter was screwed. I drifted off course all that night and most of the next day. My sat phone was dead so I had the same thing going on as in the Torres Strait - no communication. I knew that my parents were going to start to worry because I should have been doing at least 100 miles a day unless something was wrong on the boat. There was nothing I could do except for wait and bob around not going anywhere. It was driving me crazy so that day to keep my mind alive I pulled down the sails, not that they were doing anything) and tied a rope around my wast and jumped over the side. Don't worry, I got back on board pretty quickly because I've just seen too many sharks in the last 8 months to feel comfortable swimming in the open ocean. In the evening, the wind filled in and I was able to sail along at about 4-5 knots. It was a relief because at that rate I would get in around 10:00am the next day. I sailed nicely through the night and the next morning sailed my way around the island.
As there would be no way for me to anchor without an engine in such tight quarters, I was towed in to the anchorage around 11:00am. I got all moored up, met up with Jen and went ashore to clear customs and immigration. I did a radio interview and then went to do another interview at the Saint FM station close to the waterfront. I interviewed with Mike, the owner and main DJ, who then offered for me to stay with him in his house above the radio station. I've been there for the past couple nights.
In the last couple of days I've seen the whole island, Napoleon's grave (Yes, Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled and died here) and met a few of the locals who have been great and friendly people. I climbed up Jacob's Ladder - all 699 foot high steps and have started on the engine work. I should be getting some help from a mechanic on Monday.
Sorry it took so long to get this off. There has been very poor phone reception, limited Internet, etc. There is always a lot going on when I first arrive in port. I still need to get down to the jetty where sailors have been adding their names since they first began visiting here on there trips across the Atlantic. I can't remember if Robin Graham was here on Dove. I thought he went to Ascension further north. Anybody know? All is well and I will be in touch again soon.
Cheers,
Sliding down the rail of Jacob's Ladder, St Helena Island
Link to AOL Article:
http://news.aol.com/article/teen-sails-globe/373472
48 Comments:
Awesome picture of Zac on Jacob's Ladder. Try Skateboard and ride the rails that in Cali dudes LOL.
ROBIN LEE Graham : "He sighted St. Helena but did not land. On August 23, he dropped anchor at Clarence Bay, Ascension"
Hmmm didn't Zac drop the SATty phone in the sink also earlier on?
Might get a hint to keep it somewhere else?
I think that tortoise in the picture is Jonathon? 176 year old behemoth
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1091654/Jonathan-176-year-old-tortoise-revealed-worlds-oldest-animal-Boer-War-photo.html
Wow, I'm early on in the post group. Amazing.
What a story Zac. You are going to write a great book. I just died with you when you were bobbing around out there awaiting wind, without sat phone - oh, please do find somewhere other than by that sat-phone-eating-sink for this vital equipment. That is if there is a choice.
I love the photo of Johnathan. No kidding, the stories he could tell. Wow. So glad you had Jen to share this island with.
Hope all repairs go well and that you are off soon for the next leg.
Congratulations and many prayers Zac as you run for home.
Kathy
Bend, OR
Congratulations for making St. Helena! Pictures are grand. Nice on of sliding down Jacob's Ladder.
I agree with Anonymous: maybe dropping the sat phone in the sink twice means keep it somewhere else? :) or is that not a possibility?
praying for you daily.
~Jessica from Alberta, Canada
'Be strong and of good courage; do not be afraid, neither be dismayed; for the Lord your God is with you wherever you go.' - Joshua 1:9
Great update, and as always GREAT photo's from Jen...
Dave & Skipper
dave@davehickson.com
Here's an article about Zac from just before he left Cape Town. Looks new and may have only been published this month:
http://www.capetownmagazine.com/articles/On-the-Move~c7/Worlds-Youngest-Solo-Circumnavigator-Aspirant-Visits-Cape-Town~1399
Hey Zac,
Great to hear from you. BTW, that
tortoise photo is wicked looking...
they do look prehistoric close up,
don't they?
You certainly have encountered some very unique seaman in their metal fishing boats eh? Twice now.
Hope you can get all the parts needed for that repair...got a long leg ahead of you. And I do hope you find some Velcro, for your phone. About time for that.
Carry On, you're doing great!
Kate
Wow I bet that was frustrating not being able to go anywhere, but I'm glad that you got to shore safely! Hope that your repairs go good, do you think that it will be be difficult??? Well have fun in St. Helena and keep us posted!!!!
Morgan
Montana
What I want to know is: Did Zac actually climb all the way up Jacob's ladder; or did he do like we did in 1974, take a cab to the top, walk down a few steps, and then take a picture as though we had walked all the way up from the valley below?
Kudos to Dr. David Lowenberg for donating the AIS radar. Great job Zac! Enjoy your stay in St. Helena.
Neo
Zac:
It's good to read your 'voice' and get such a comprehensive update on things.
The photos are beyond fantastic. My favorites are of the tortoise and the one of you on Jacob's Ladder. I would not even think of trying to walk all the way up. Years ago, I tried Victoria Peak in Hong Kong but copped out after a bit and took the 'vernicular' or whatever strange word they use to define it.
Praying for good and speedy repairs in SH and hey, do something about the storage place for that phone. Sink-side now has two strikes against it.
Hello and thanks to Jen. She's a remarkable lady and a real talent for what she does.
The Croaker
Great pictures and post.. So how long did it take to get up 699 steps?
Zac, you gonna have to promise that your not gonna take a lonely swim off the side again..or just don't tell us hahaha. So good to see that your enjoying each port. Thanks for sharing!
Have fun & be safe
P.S Try a small upside down drainboard in your sink..it will allow the water but should catch and keep you phone dry.
Laura BD
So many fantastic places to learn about that you've visited. Many of which I'd never heard of until now (and I grew up in the Conejo valley too).
And I must agree that Jen is an outstanding photographer, and I wish her the best as well!
Ah, your pics are excelllent!! a great posting by you as well!
maybe you and Jen can write on how you feel about each other and give some insight into this tag team you've got going.... makes for a great chapter in the book!!!!
Hello Zac,
Now that was a great post. It's always nice to live through your experiences. It's a very welcomed treat for me. The pictures like always are GREAT!!! Thanks so much Jen. Zac sliding down that stair rail was an incredible picture. What a great view so far down by the ocean. I'm glad you didn't have your skateboard with you so you couldn't attempt riding that RAIL!!!
Enjoy your time on the Island. I hope that you have endless fun there.
Feed the Turtle,
Douglas Pistone
MDR, California
I'm surprised the starter motor fizzled. Wasn't that a brand new Yanmar you put in before you left?
If the starter was new also it would seem there's some warranty left on it eh? I remember my first car, a 1956 Chevy wagon. I got the car in 1968 and the original starter still worked fine.
What does that say about modern day
stuff?
Hey, Zac
Glad you had a good look around on St Helena. Excellent photos. I think that old tortoise might have been a youngster when Napoleon was there.
Ha. Get some rest. My best to folks at Saint FM.
Kodiak Mike
Kids...what ar ya gona do?
I gues experience life the best way possable. I'm jelous.
Philippians 4:6
Be safe Zac!
Hey, Everybody-
An L.A. TIMES poll asked its readers
what they thought about Zac's voyage. Out of 4,844 respondents so far, here are the results:
More Power to Him! 67%
It's crazy at any age 20%
He's too young 13%
Way to go, Zac.....guess LA's in your corner!
Kodiak Mike
Hiya Zac!
Most excellent post, thanks!
OK..can't continue until I voice my opinion:(read this and picture me shaking a finger at you)For the love of potato salad keep that phone away from the sink! Water + phone = bad things!! :)
AND SECOND......STAY OUT OF THAT WATER!!! No good has ever come from swimming in the ocean at night, there are things that would just assume to bite as to look at you...all in agreement raise their hand. OK I feel better, the "mom" in me just HAD to come out LOL!!! ;)
I am so looking forward to your book, from reading your posts I know it will be wonderful! Hopefully you'll have some of Jen's beautiful photos.
We are all so proud of you Zac. I can hardly believe you are headed home. God's angels and indeed God himself has smiled upon you.
Fair winds and following seas.
Hugs and many blessings,
Anita Miracle
Waterloo, NY
Captain SV Wombat ~_/)
Awesome pics! Jacobs ladder reminds of the "ladder" up Half-Dome/Yosemite. The angle looks so similar from half-dome one slip up the wrong side of the ladder... I don't even want say :-)
Love the rest of the recap of the leg...
Ali
Zac- you & Jen are such a treat! We just gotta know what's up between the 2 of you. May God speed you both- you are such an inspiration to us all- young and not so young.
@Anita- just had to giggle with your "for the love of potato salad..."- that is a new one for me, and...do you add dry mustard to your potato salad?!?
Lots of prayers and good wishes to you both on your up-cooming travels.
Marnie from MV/CA
On my sailboat I have a seacock for the sink drain that I turn off whenever I go racing or am in other heeling over conditions. That keeps the water out of the sink. From a safety standpoint you must have a seacock valve on the sink drain. Can you simply turn it off?
Always a delight to read your posts. Hooray to Jen for the wonderful photos. She's added a huge amount to your trip.
And ... I join with others in thanking Dr. David Lowenberg for giving you the AIS. Talk about a Life Saver!
Happy sailing.
- Grant Fjermedal, Seattle
Zac, What's on the agenda? Did U find any of Napolean's stash of cognac? I'm pretty sure the eventhough he was a "ward of the British Empire correctional system" they would have allowed him a few indiscretions. I can imagine him down at the "local" with his trusty sword telling war stories and the locals rolling their eyes bored to tears with the "Frenchman".
Hi There Zac,
Congratulations on knocking off that last leg, great speed followed by calmness just shows that the sailing life lesson of you can only do what the wind allows you to do. As in life some things are within our control and others are not. We have to deal with what we have to work with at the time. Sounds like you accomplished some things that are best done in calm waters while you were in calm water. Too bad about the phone charger that fell in the sink, at least it wasn't the phone itself. Re-enforces the thoughts of having redundant gear, especially for such important items as a Sat Phone. You know Murpheys Law pretty well by now. Hope your vane gears will hold together for the remainder of the trip. You may qualify for some pre-engineering classes by the time you get back! What a frustrating fuel system you have on Intrepid... and did you put the old starter back on when you replaced the engine? I wouldn't think a new starter would have failed within such a short time and light use, but anything is possible with stuff that is made today.
If you can, write a little about what it's like to be sailing towards home rather than away. And as always thanks for sharing your adventure with the world, we sure have been enjoying the ride. Your Guestmap now has nearly 400 entries, and it is for sure a worldwide Zac Pac that follows you.
Keep the Faith!
Bob in OKC
Hey, Zac – great blog – always good to hear from you about what you’ve been going through. Once again you’ve proven your incredible sailing ability and tenacity to make this voyage a success. I absolutely love the pics – thank you Jen and thank you Zac for showing us Jen! What I want to know is, did you get the slinky down 699 stairs??? Have a great time on St Helena – enjoy and best luck to you for your repair and prep work.
Peace, Your Oklahoma Well-Wisher
What a fabulous (but scary) picture on the steps! Wow!
from Iowa
Zach, good job so far…I’m eagerly awaiting your finally.
Here are some of my thoughts.
Possessing a sailor’s cunning, and a photographer’s eye, your potential to create a legendary life story is immense.
The lessons of the seas will remain yours forever. The feelings of loneliness, the moments of despair and flashes of fear, all tend to enhance the beauty and serenity of the sea. However, to attempt to share these experiences, an insightfully captured photo archive may give some visual aid to the telling of your story.
Jen is doing a wonderful job of documenting your travels, but shots ashore and at sea from a personal perspective lend an element of realism and emotion that can only be captured by you.
Develop a photographer’s eye and insight. Couple that with your zest for adventure on and off the water, and Jen will have a life long career just following you around the world.
Ken
s/v running water
Great Update and beautiful photos
Thanks to Jen again for the visual aspect of this journey.
Loved the part where you said
I tied a rope around my waist and jumped over the side. Don't worry, I got back on board pretty quickly"...Boys will be boys
Now that you are in St Helena pick up some velcro and attach it to the counter. This way you can avoid the Sat phone charger dilema again.
One of my friends who sails uses velcro to hold things in place. He attaches the velcro like a + sign for safe attachment.
I cant believe that 8 months have gone by so quicky. Would love to hear u feelings on this
Enjoy St Helena
regards
Sherna
Shooting the shooter - LOL. Am wondering if you caught Miss Jen off guard in that one ;)
Thx to both y'all (& Lady Marianne/Team Sunderland for posting it for us to read!).
I sorta/kinda/maybe agree w/Miss Anita - watch what you're jumping into, but am way glad you were wise enought to attach that rope! Personally, I don't know if I could've waited that long for a quick dip. Bet you felt refreshed tho' :) Maybe on you next circumnavigation a sponsor might include a fishing "monitor" so you're aware of what's below :)
I whole heartedly agree w/the Velcro idea (on the upper cabin wall that is). Maybe put a few around the salon just in case you need to "store" it in a hurry when you need to dash up topside. Tho' a fanny-pak or five tacked to the cabin walls would achieve the same purpose. You could even line them w/a plastic baggie/zip-lock for water-resistance.
Maybe Lady Marianne will be able to locate an address for one of your next port-of-calls so we ZacPac'ers might send you some ;)
Lady Marianne mentioned in a previous post you dragged a line while approaching SH. Catch anything edible?
When I get home from w*rk, I've been tuning into (online that is) Saint FM. What a great mix of tunes! Will be interesting to hear if the "pause" is released so they might get the airport they've been planning on for the past 10+/- yrs. Maybe they'll be able to catch you prior to leaving port for an indepth interview - that'd be great to listen to!
Pleased to hear you've been able to enjoy the relaxation.
Capt Zac!, you're still taking your anti-malarials, yes?!?
Warm Fuzzy Bear HUGS!
Tomi/ATL
PS-
If Miss Jen is planning on tagging after/along w/your journey, maybe, just maybe, she should be taking the same anti-malarials (just in case) - most especially as y'all near the S American continent/Southern Gulf Basin area(s)/Panama Canal traverse.
T.
Cool picks! Thanks Jen,
Has everyone seen this page
http://www.thedeepradioshow.com/Pages/circumnavigation.html
Kath
Hi Zac,
Thanks for your great post and sharing the excellent pics taken by you and Jen.
I agree with the other posters about jumping into the water, even with a rope tied around your waist. You don't know what might be lurking around.
Glad you're enjoying S.H. and getting things repaired or readied for your next leg.
Keep safe and Godspeed!
Dick & Gin
Jacob's Lader looks AWESOME!
Have fun. I Hope you get your engine fixed!
Zac,
As always, it's great to read the words as they tumble from your mind. Your ability to communicate your thoughts and feelings has progressed alongside the maturity and responsibility for oneself as this trip has progressed. I mentioned last time that June seems so long ago, yet in many ways it feels like yesterday as well.
While your getting close to your goal as each day passes, it's never too early to begin thinking about 'what's next'.
Although I am sure you've considered what is ahead, foresight is so much better than hindsight.
My Scout Troop is having a competition of sorts. The first part is they are taking blocks of dates and times as to what time you'll enter the Panama Canal, with the second part of who might actually see your passage on one of the canal cams. It keeps them involved and interested.
I will close with this.....you continue to amaze and impress. In a society when new news is only hot for a week at a time, you have held people attention for so long. Some who have been part of this blog have stayed for longer than most could imagine, yet through it all new people look in daily, and are equally impressed with your amazing feat.
I know Southern California is something your impatient to see again, and you will soon enough. Your family, specifically your younger siblings must be so anxious, and proud of their big bother, and they should be.
We'll be here daily checking on you til you cross over that front door of home, and hold your family in your arms once more.
Zac-
Sounds like you're enjoying yourself following Jen's departure to Ascenscion.
Please let us know how the slinky did on the 699 steps. Who knows, you might actually break two records! LOL
Awesome pics Zac! That new camera takes some good pictures! I think I moved away from the computer screen a little when that big fella the tortoise showed his face. ;) Jacob's Ladder looks like it would give a terrrific view. Some fun sliding down the rail.
Enjoy the time on land!
A fellow homeschooled friend
I think the only web cam for Intrepid passing the Panama Canal would be the one at Miraflores in high resolution. The other cam's are too far away. Hope he will go through the locks at daytime
Axel
heye@madisoncounty.net
What's the story today?
Has Jonathan the tortoise rubbed off on ole Zac? :-)
When Zac arrived at St Helena. 1700 nm from Cape Town, Minoru Saito was also exactly 1700nm from Cape Town. Today Mike is exactly 1700nm from Cape Town. If we understand Jen left on Sunday on this power cat (interestingly there is an article about them in that St Helena Independant about the boats on delivery). Next thing we know she'll be 1700nm from St Helena.
Meanwhile back at the tortoise ranch where by Zac :-)
1. How goes the starter motor rebuild???
2. How cause the gearing of the windvane trouble shooting?
3. Does the new SAT charger work? Did he get the old one fixed (probably just needed a rinse in fresh water unless it short circuited. What backups have been fashioned at this time?
4. What else is happening?
Per Zac's Facebook:
"Zac is going to be DJing on Saint FM from 7-9 pm" today.
That will be from noon - 2PM (PST).
You can listen live (after downloading some software)
Here's the link -
http://www.saint.fm/
In the upper right hand corner there is a link to listen live...
Brilliant photos, especially the one on Jacob's ladder! When you stop at a new port Zac, I'm a google-head, so I go to google and read about it and look for pics. This one of you on Jacob's ladder is the best I've seen. I suppose you are getting ready for the next (very long) leg. Better than a month at sea it looks like, unless you have decided to check out Ascension Island, since you are so close.
You are popping up all over the internet now! Pretty cool, huh?
Thanks for taking time to write about you journey from Cape Town!
Namaste~~
Oh man...I have just heard Zac DJing in St Helena...it is soooo cool...imagine!
You gotta listen if you can.
The link is above kindly noted by Melanie.
UK friend
Looks like Zac is having a lot of fun in St Helena. Loved those tortoises!
Gee. You could go really bonkers with virtually no wind for an entire day like that. Glad it wasn't too bad.
Scott
:)
It was really cool listening to Capt Zac! dj on Saint FM today. Sounds like he might have a possible alternative career. Good job Capt!
Warm Fuzzy Bear HUGS!
Tomi/ATL
just read "California Dreaming" It was great.
Laura
I highly recommend "California Dreaming" to everybody. It's a great little story about cruising with the Sunderlands
Axel
You must be having fun ! No post in awhile. Enjoy my friend. Have a great stop.
Chris Carnaghi
Alhambra, CA
What a great picture!!!
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