Monday, January 26, 2009

All the Way Around (the Cape)

Latest Position: V & A Marina, Cape Town South Africa

I pulled in to Cape Town last night at about 9pm. The trip from Mossel Bay was good compared to the stories I had heard of what this coast is known for. When I rounded Cape Agulhas I started tacking and didn't stop till the final run in to Cape Town. I could not seem to find much wind that wasn't on the nose. However, the winds were the least of my worries. The shipping was my main concern with the best part of 20 to 30 ships passing me each day. I was constantly altering course and hailing them on the radio so we would pass clear of each other. After a couple sleepless nights I was about 70 miles from the break water on the morning before I finally arrived. The part of the harbor where Intrpeid is moored is called the V & A Waterfront. It is a new deveopment in Cape Town and is very nice. In order to get into this area of the harbor I had to pass under 2 swing bridges. Swing bridges are bridges that swing open to let you pass through. In Cape Town Harbor the bridge operators stop swinging at 10pm so I had to make a 6 something knot average in order to get in on time. I was messing with the sails all day trying to make the best of the dying and shifting winds and in the end I just made it, but not easily. I was going past Table Mountain about 15 miles from the breakwater with full sail up and about 10 to 15 knots behind me when I suddenly got slammed by 30 knots. In a couple seconds Intrepid rounded up into the wind. I put a couple of reefs in the main and pulled in some genny and was off again only to have the wind die off again as I got closer. Just as I was coming into the harbor I had 25 on the nose so it was quite a finish!
It was good to see Jen and Dad and get caught up on things at home. We had a late dinner and I just crashed on the boat.
It is good to get in and Cape Town seems like a real nice place. I'm still a bit wasted from the sleepless nights so I'll let you know how the repairs go as they go.
We did hear from Mike Perham's father and he was very friendly. I don't know about the publicist's comments but we are good to go and may have a quiet drink together before Mike speeds off to the Southern Ocean.
Cheers,
Zac

32 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Whew! Congratulations on getting in safely -- any pictures of the swing bridge?

So happy to hear that you may be able to meet up with Mike -- an added dimension to your already-incredible story.

Zac, I hope you have a great time with your dad and are able to get some uninterrupted, deep sleep. Staying tuned in the midwest, CindyinCincy

January 26, 2009 at 7:59 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Get some sleep!

January 26, 2009 at 8:04 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm so happy that you've made it to Cape Town safely and am enjoying some much needed rest and catching up with your Dad. Thanks so much for posting the details of your journey as we so enjoy hearing them.

Am happy to hear that you've connected with Mike's Dad and you plan a quiet rendezvous together sharing stories and experiences. At the end of the day you are two young men who are part of a very small club. To be able to share and commiserate about your individual journeys should be celebrated and I hope you raise a glass to each others accomplishments as you both certainly deserve to do so!

All the best to you, Zac and make sure you let Mike and his father know that your supporters are indeed interested in his journey as well.

January 26, 2009 at 8:07 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Zac,
This will be the only communication I leave for you, for I know you are a "little busy".
I am an blind,old man and admire greatly what you are doing. I have always lived by the motto "Live while alive" and you, my young friend, are doing just that. You are an inspiration to many, many people who will not come forward and speak - and to many more that will. Because of what you are attempting - and I would expect soon to succeed at - I have decided to embark on another "adventure of a lifetime" of my own. I would not have done so if I had not rode along side of you in my daydreams. I am a blind old man, but not a dead one. Someday I plan to come sliding into my own funeral dusty, sweaty, bruised and battered, and yell "Wow!!! What a life!" Thank you for giving me back my 'vision' mate. God speed.
Timm Rowton

January 26, 2009 at 8:39 PM  
Blogger Daveh said...

Great post Zac.......

Daveh & Skipper
dave@davehickson.com

January 26, 2009 at 8:39 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Well done. ((Your Mom seemed a bit anxious on your Durban - CT trip.)) So it's good to know U made it in safe. Maybe it was because of the unpredictable seas,the shipping traffic, or she might of just plained missed yah!
Deep breath M.A.
Forgive me for asking but I curious as what the damage is when U call home from the Intrepid?
Find the best cheeseburger U can in CT and chow down.

January 26, 2009 at 8:47 PM  
Blogger Morse Bear said...

Zac, congratulations on arriving in Cape Town and sailing the Southern Ocean!!! Great sailing Zac! I was in Cape Town 10 years ago. Lovely city and the V&A has a lot of stores and restaurants to keep you busy. A friend of mine will be trying to meet you down there. Keep an eye open for Bernard. A belated happy birthday my California friend. - Rem, San Francisco Bay Area

January 26, 2009 at 10:37 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Zac:
Great story of your arrival in Cape Town and super great that you are now there.

It somehow pleases me that you might be able to connect with Mike Perham. I was annoyed and personally offended by the alleged comments by his publicist! I'm now happy to reflect that they were not made and are seemingly unratified by Mike and his father. Hope that you get to spend a couple of hours swapping war stories. I'm sure he'll be interested in the "mystery ship" of the Indian Ocean. It would be even nicer if you had the opportunity to tour your respective crafts since they are so different in nature.

What repairs are in order in Cape Town? We're all interested! Get them done, sleep, spend time with Dad, then sleep some more.

The Croaker

January 26, 2009 at 10:48 PM  
Blogger John Gezelius said...

Lots of touristy stuff on the V&A Waterfront. There is a Paulener brewpub at the north end of one of those bridges. Plenty of folks singing and playing music for tips. Look for the Mandela / Tutu statue by the wharf.

January 26, 2009 at 11:42 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Zac, congratulations on reaching another important milestone! Daydream sailor here, in midwinter Switzerland, been following your adventure trough your blog. How long are you planning to stay in Cape Town? I just happen to fly down to Cape Town next Sunday with my family for a 2 week vacation and of course I'd love to come out to V&A Waterfront and catch a glimpse! Hope you haven't moved out by then!

Cheers
Eckard

January 27, 2009 at 1:46 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Three cheers for Zac.....
what a job you did to get in to the V&A before the bridges were closed. Loved the descritpions you give...well written.. we could have been there with you, you make it so REAL for us land dwellers! Tell your mum she should give you A+ for your descriptive writing.
Enjoy Cape Town.

UK friend

January 27, 2009 at 1:56 AM  
Blogger Anita said...

Well done Zac! It had to be frustrating fussing around with the sails etc. to get the timing right for the passing under the swing bridges.....sort of like the 5 minute warning before a sail race but in your case for hours!

I propose you get your English credits for the school year since you do such a wonderful job writing your blog. :)

I was happy to read that you and young Mike will be meeting. Who else but the two of you know what each other has gone through; mind and body. What a wonderful opportunity.

@Kodiak Mike....the hoodie is awesome. I've been doing lots of snowshoing and it's kept me nice and warm!!! :)

@ Eckard, I believe that Zac's stay is 3 weeks, hope you do get to meet, and take lots of photos!!!

Enjoy all Cape town has to offer.
Hugs and many blessings.
Anita
Waterloo, NY
Captain SV "Wombat"

January 27, 2009 at 2:32 AM  
Blogger Douglas Pistone said...

Hello Zac,

What a great post. You made Cape Town without any major problems. This leg even had me a little worried. With all the bad experiences sailors have actually had in this region you pulled it off without any problems. Congratulations on this great feat.

I would also like to thank everyone that's helping Zac with the weather. In this region you really need to know when to stay on land and when to actually sail. Everyone involved has a little part in Zac's success and we THANK YOU all.

Have fun with Dad and Jen and hopefully we'll see lots of great pictures real soon. I really hope you can hook up with Mike real soon. Hopefully Jen will be able to take plenty of pictures.

Enjoy Land,
Douglas Pistone
MDR, California

January 27, 2009 at 5:49 AM  
Blogger Mona said...

Zac,
Wow, congratulations on yet another major milestone on this incredible journey!
I'm so glad to hear that you and Mike will be meeting. It sould be great fun for both of you. Please get a picture of the two of you to post for us.
Enjoy, enjoy and enjoy somemore!
Mona,
Tucson, AZ

January 27, 2009 at 7:19 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

All looks good. 3 weeks in Cape Town is perfect. You'll get to see everything. Can't believe the incredible timing of bailing out of Mossel Bay just in time. Mega storm coming in tomorrow through Friday, 16-20ft seas and 25-35 knot winds. Still sunny though. Would have not been fun being caught in that.

Don't forget Clifton Four beach, that's the most sheltered in this weather. You'll feel the wind everywhere except there and the Southern Suburbs. Camps Bay will be a disaster even sitting outdoors at the cafes.

Hope you not going to hang at the V&A for three weeks :-) tons to see and do.

1. Biltong, Jouber & Monty right there at the V&A for your outbound stock up, and working on the boat snacks. Go to the shop, better supply:

Shop 6101
V&A Waterfront

Biltong Kiosk
Clock Tower Precinct
V&A Waterfront

2. Surfing. Muizenberg, surfer's corner (Indian Ocean), or Kommetjie (Atlantic), two main spots, once freezing cold, the other a little warmer. Print out the below if and when you get a chance. All I can say both areas are notorious for great Whites. :-(

http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Africa/South_Africa/Cape_Town/

3. It may seem odd having actually sailed around Cape Point, but for prosperity it would still be cool to go there inland and get some photos. You'll get a very good idea of what you just sailed around. You can do a drive around the whole Cape in a day. Also hit Hout Bay and Chapman's Peak drive. Hout Bay, get some fresh smoked snoek. I suspect you will quite like it. Depending which way you are going, Simon's Town in False Bay, you can go and see the Great White's breaching at Seal Island , not exactly the season though, you may still see some if they interest you :-)

4. Back on the biltong subject, while in CT, particularly False Bay, try the Cape Bokkom a salt dried mullet fish, as equally as tasty as beef biltong. Hope you tried the ostrich biltong, if not give it a go. Outstanding.

5. Of course the inland wine route is also a must, and if you can go into the Karoo, and Oudtshoorn the Ostrich Capital of the world. You can get to ride them and stand on their eggs :-) plus the Karoo is super hot and super dry a nice break for the salt air of the Atlantic seaboard.

6. Otherwise if you got people there, pretty sure they'll give you the complete tour of everywhere and anything Cape Peninsula. From the last entry, crashing on the boat. Hope someone's got a proper hotel room for you at least to clean up for the 3 weeks?

7. Try the Hunter's Gold apple cider. It's so refreshing and tasty you won't know it contains alcohol :-). Also a must is CERES (not liqui fruit - same company). CERES tetra pack fresh fruit juices. Stock up on these if you can for when you leave. Try the grape and lichi, make sure they are very cold (you can of course net them and drop them behind the boat to chill them on your trip). 100% natural product no need for fresh fruit on the journey.

Too many other things to mention, the above just FYI and well experienced.

I suspect you will have a fantastic 3 weeks in Cape Town, will take a few days to get used it but once in the groove, hard to get out of. Perfect resting place for the next leg.

Enjoy and have fun, and post lots of pictures. Often ! :-)

January 27, 2009 at 7:28 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I forgot :-(

The ZAR (rand) is very weak right now. Is 10:1 as of today, hovering between 9 and 10. When at 10 buy your 3 weeks worth. It makes life very very pleasant when for example a bottle of heineken beer in a top restuarant costs 10 rand, and it translates to USD1.00 or R100 top steak, converts to USD10.00

January 27, 2009 at 7:33 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

A quote from Mike in his latest blog.
"It would be great to meet up with Zac Sunderland (another teen circumnavigator) and his Dad in Cape Town for a few drinks and exchange a few tales - I should arrive sometime this weekend."

January 27, 2009 at 8:29 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Greetings all,
Not only have you arrived safely after an arduous sail BUT you and your Dad get to watch the Super Bowl
together in Capetown...pretty cool
and one you will not forget!
Hope the "work" part of the stop goes quickly and efficiently so you
have loads of time to enjoy all you encounter.
Looking forward to the photos Jen!
Kate

January 27, 2009 at 8:44 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

WOW what a journey the Cape has been! It seems the Indian Ocean was nothing in comparison. Every part of the globe has it's challenges and you have been meeting each on head on with great determination. Way to go my friend. Time to recharge those batteries.
Chris Carnaghi
Alhambra,CA

January 27, 2009 at 8:50 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great blog, Zac -- good to hear the tale in your words... We're all breathing a collective sigh of relief that you made it through those legs with such success. Enjoy Cape Town with your Dad and Jen and new friends, looking forward to hearing about it. Definitely will be incredibly interesting if you & Mike and the two Dads can meet up -- who would have thunk it???

Peace, Your Oklahoma Well-Wisher

January 27, 2009 at 9:26 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

If I were you, I'd rather meet up with Natasza who should still be there

January 27, 2009 at 9:42 AM  
Blogger Daryl said...

A "quiet drink," huh? Interesting :)

From Iowa

January 27, 2009 at 9:52 AM  
Blogger Unknown said...

Yippee!!! Well Done!! Congratulations on making it safely around the Cape. You certainly deserve three weeks of R&R and spending time with your Dad. Be a teenager, sleep till noon:)

@"Weather Team Sunderland"
Thanks you did a fantastic job in guiding Zac around the cape. I have read quite a bit about sailors having to be rescued in this region.

@Mom, I a sure you will get some good night's sleep now that your 2 guys are safely on land.
Looking forward to seeing Jen's excellent photos as usual.

regards
Sherna

January 27, 2009 at 10:18 AM  
Blogger Rusty said...

Zac, Wow you are in a realm that most sailor will never experience. As good as your descriptions are, I can't even imagine it.
Ships have always been one of my worst fears. Having to avoid that many and in sloppy weather makes me shiver. Congratulations on the safe passage. I worry about the "Ladies" sailing down that coast. Have you heard from Marta?

Rusty

January 27, 2009 at 11:05 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

To walk over this swing bridge after some "quiet" beers is very safe !!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Swing_Bridge_and_ferry_in_motion.jpg

Zac, have on on us too.

January 27, 2009 at 11:59 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

same picture in full resolution.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/74/Swing_Bridge_and_ferry_in_motion.jpg

January 27, 2009 at 12:01 PM  
Blogger Splais said...

Zac, just curious, but I notice that you and Mike P are sailing around the world in opposite directions! What goes into that determination and why the difference if you know?

January 27, 2009 at 1:16 PM  
Blogger Fulgum said...

Sounds great, Zac.

If you and Mike Perham meet up, please take a pic or two for posterity. We'd all love to see it!

:)

Scott

January 27, 2009 at 1:54 PM  
Blogger Tomi said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

January 27, 2009 at 8:36 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Zack, So thankful to hear you are in Cape Town safe and sound. Hope you get lots of extra sleep now. Staying tuned from the heartland of landlocked Iowa,USA. Heading to sunny CA. for the month of Feb. Will check in as often as possible. Really appreciate your updates. Prayers always!

January 27, 2009 at 8:47 PM  
Blogger Tomi said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

January 27, 2009 at 9:32 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hey zac. congrats on the cape.
i would love to see a video clip on life on board interpid. its been a while. once again sail safe and god bless

January 27, 2009 at 9:40 PM  

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