A Lengthy Laurence Blog

Interesting view of the canal from land - Photo by Laurence Sunderland

G'day to all,
It is good to be back home again after so many days away this month. Here is a synopsis of my time with Zac in the amazing country of Panama.

I arrived in Panama the evening before Zac. A taxi ride from the airport took me to Shelter Bay Marina which is the marina that yachts transiting from the Atlantic to the Pacific stop at to take care of the formalities of transiting the canal. Saying that the weather was hot and humid would be an understatement. Of course being 1 or 30 lbs overweight does not help. The Shelter Bay Marina has a hotel that overlooks the marina and rooms were reasonable at $65.00 per night.

The hotel and marina are on the opposite side of the river from the city of Colon which is a small city that is crime ridden and not a place that you would wonder around alone. One has to travel into Colon to get groceries, go to the Port Captain to arrange the admeasurer (guy who measures the boat before transit) and pay the agent who posted the bond for Zac's transit. It is a 35 minute drive if you don't cross the river at the same time as a ship is passing through the Gatun Locks. If that is the case, then you may have to wait at the one way swing bridge for up to an hour. Shelter Bay is somewhat isolated and is surrounded by rain forest. It is built where the US forces base used to be. Russ, the manager, was eager to help with questions and was an invaluable help getting organized for the canal transit

The Thursday evening before Zac arrived, I was overlooking the Marina watching a healthy thunder storm brewing. I thought about Zac out there knowing he would be in for quite a night. Not only would he be dealing with the thunder storm, but he would have to be extra vigilant throughout the night because of the increased shipping.




















Zac arriving at Shelter Bay in the rain - Photo by Laurence Sunderland

Early the following morning I spotted Intrepid on the horizon. It was raining with remnants of the thunderstorm. I managed to persuade one the marina workers to take me out to guide Zac in to Shelter Bay. Zac, though tired, was pleased to see me. He had just made the passage from Granada - 1300 nm in a little over seven days and the Panama basin would be the last planned stop of his solo circumnavigation.

We went straight into action organizing the transit through the canal. For all of you who plan to do this in the future, this is what you will need to do. If you don't have 4 x 125 ft lines you will have to rent them. Speak to Russ or if on the Pacific side talk to someone at the Balboa Yacht Club. It cost us $80.00 for the rental of lines. It is also recommended to have additional fenders. These are available in the form of plastic covered automobile tires. They are provided at $3.00 each. Ask the dock master or any local dock workers as they all seem to be willing to help.




















Fenders a la Panama - Photo by Laurence Sunderland

You will also need to organize for the admeasurer to come and measure your yacht. For yachts transiting the canal for the first time, this is organized through the Port Captain's office in Colon on the Atlantic side. If coming from the Pacific side ask at the yacht club. Once this is organized, the admeasurer will come to your yacht, take the measurement and explain the transit through the canal in detail. After this, all you have to do is pay the fee that is determined by the length of the vessel. Intrepid's fee was $1500: $600 for the actual transit and $900 was a bond that has to be put up in case of break down or a need for assistance. This is returned after a successful transit. The funds had to be paid in cash (which is a new rule) and are paid to the City Bank and transfered to the Canal Authority.




















Meeting with the admeasurer - Photo by Laurence Sunderland

Once the payment has been registered with the Port Authority, the scheduling for the transit is made by a simple phone call. The admeasurer gives you all the details of who to call and when. It is a great idea to rent a phone from the Shelter Bay Marina office. Most of these steps can be deferred to an agent if you choose to use one. We chose not to use an agent initially because of how helpful the marina was. Unfortunately, as we were going into the weekend and banks were closed we ended up engaging an agency that has an established relationship with the Port Authorities and who could post a bond for us. This was done to prevent any delays getting Zac's appointment as we are pushing the hurricane season in the Pacific.

Once all the formalities were taken care of and transit time of Monday the 18th at 1800hrs was given. Fortunately, we had arranged to buddy boat with Pura Vida, a rather nice catamaran owned and operated by Dallas, Wes and their wives, Lauren and Tiffany. Dallas and Wes are brothers in their mid 30s and are both electrical engineers. They are top guys as were their wives who furnished a spectacular meal up on Gatun lake the first night.

All boats transiting the Panama Canal are required to have 4 line handlers on board and one adviser, assigned by the Canal Authority, who is essentially a large ship pilot in training. The line handlers do exactly that. They handle the four 125' lines that tie the boat to the canal. There are two guys on either side of the canal on land that throw the infamous line with the monkey fist knot on the end. The line handlers tie a bow line around that line and the canal crew pulls the 125' 1" thick lines toward them attaching them to cleats. It is the job of the the line handlers on the boat keep the lines taught while the 50 miilion gallons of water enters the lock.

Zac's line handlers were to be Rosemary and her 13 year old son David from the sailing vessel Nina. They have both been through the canal before and were happy to help out. Brett, filmmaker, and I were the other 2 line handlers. Zac headed out to the flats by himself and all of us line handlers went out on Pura Vida.

We spent any time that we weren't working aboard Intrepid as line handlers aboard Pura Vida out of respect for Zac's solo circumnavigation and were only aboard when dictated to by rules and regulations of the Canal Authority.

Fernando, Zac's adviser, was brought out to the boat in a pilot boat out in the flats. He boarded Intrepid for the passage through the Gatun locks. Fernando was very courteous and professional and also a Christian. He was a great help. We approached the Gatun Locks just after dark. A small ship was already in the first chamber. We were rafted to Pura Vida and were to be rafted to a tug boat which is the best way to go through. What a feat of engineering and what a privilege to experience it first hand.

We would untie from the tug boat but stay hipped to Para Vida between locks. As the tug powered forward to move from one chamber to the other its huge props caused such turbulence that Wes from Pura Vida and Zac struggled to maintain control of their vessels. It was unnecessary for the tug boat captain to hot it up like he did and transitioning the next two chambers I managed to politely motion to him for a more dignified pace so as not repeat the situation of the first chamber. I think he realized his error and the situation did not happen again.

Before we knew it, we had been raised some 75ft to Lake Gatun. It was pitch black and as we moved away from the locks we traveled to a mooring area where we hipped with Pura Vida. Once moored, Lauren and Tiffany had prepared a wonderful lasagna and salad. We were all excited to have experienced what some call the 8th Wonder of the World. With lightning striking off in the distance, howler monkeys disturbing the night's silence and the beautiful, starry night sky above, I settled in on the trampoline netting of PuraVida for good night's sleep.

At the crack of dawn, the new advisers returned for the passage through the lake. Fortunately for Zac, Fernando returned which is not normal practice. As a fellow Christian, we shared something much deeper then just transiting the canal. We proceeded through the lake which is a huge, flooded man made basin. It was hot and humid - no it was hoooooottttt and huuummiiiiiid. I think you get the message. The scenery was magnificent as we passed ships coming through from the Pacific side. As it was my wedding anniversary, I decided to make a sign for Marianne hoping she might see it on the web cams as we were going through the Miraflores Locks. It is quite a long passage between Lake Gatun and the next set of locks. I think Zac was a little nervous of the engine breaking down given its track record which has been less than perfect .

All went well through Lake Gatun and after a 5.5 hour motor we arrived at the other side ready to be lowered into the Pacific Ocean. Zac was excited and we could all feel a fresh Pacific breeze as Intrepid was lowered back into her all to familiar ocean. Going down in the locks is easier than going up because there is less turbulence.

Once through the Miraflores Locks, Fernando was picked up by the pilot boat and Zac brought Intrepid to the Flemenco Marina. The Panamanian Tourism Authority put on quite a spread of local food for Zac and there were many reporters and local TV crews eager to talk to Zac which Zac took in his stride. Intrepid was fueled and interviews were conducted.



















Interviewing in Panama City Photo courtesy of Panama Tourism Authority




















A feast for hungry travelers - Photo courtesy Panama Tourism Authority

I had been surveying the boat and making repairs where necessary since she arrived in Shelter Bay. These are the repairs conducted:

1. Genoa removed for repair. The leach line had caught behind the upper spreader damaging the upper spreader and the sail.























At the sail maker - Photo by Zac Sunderland

2. Main sail was replaced with a new one. Much chaffing and flogging on the last 26,000 nautical miles and the sail was too tired for the beat North and West. Zac needed a new sail and UK Halsey came through yet again with a timely delivery and a great sail.
3. Tiller arm had too much play in it. Problem was rectified by using washers between rudder stock and tiller arm.
4. All new spreader boots were needed. Unfortunately, we were unable to locate what was needed so we used some of what the Australian's call, bush engineering, and took care of the situation with gaff tape and rag.
5. External Iridium phone antenna was installed compliments of Tom Brown and Mike Smith.
6. Upper spreader on the starboard side needed repair from leach line wrenching it and damaging it. Although if a welder was available, it would have been preferred we had to use 3 hose clamps covered with gaff tape to do the repair.

Tonight we will be in communication with meteorologist, David Morris to discuss the details of Zac's final leg. Zac should leave Panama early Tuesday morning. Though he is excited to be coming home, he has not underestimated the challenge of this final leg. He will be put to the test one more time with hurricane season looming and contrary winds and currents to contend with. He is anxious to see his home port of Marina Del Rey.

Please keep him in your payers as he embarks on this final leg of this quest.

Cheers,
Laurence


















Under the Bridge of the Americas back into the Pacific




















View from the Country Inn - Photo by Laurence Sunderland